![]() |
Clementine Kalamata Steamed Pudding Photograph by A. Schloss |
This new age take on an Old World dessert is completely my fault. I made it up,
tested it to the nth degree, and stand behind its unashamed sweet and savory
idiosyncrasies. It is constructed like a traditional sticky toffee steamed pudding with salty
olives and candied clementine taking the candied dates' role, honey and rosemary
stepping in for the toffee sauce, and silken chestnut flour playing the
supporting starchy role typically taken by a wheat flour-based pudding mixture. The
totality is earthy and cosmopolitan.
It is a riff on a sweet and savory cornmeal pudding I developed for Cooking Slow (page 196). That recipe was one of my favorites in the book and the star of a dinner I did with a local restaurant (Park Plates) last month. The attending crowd loved it as much as I had when I created the recipe, and though I still agreed (it is delicious), I felt a little embarassed by its unabashed quirkiness, the very quality that had first charmed me.
Cornmeal's rustic character, simultaneously plush and gritty in the pudding, started to feel more pretentious than seductive to me, and the dark tint from the olives, which I had initially admired, changed from being a charming quirk to a minor flaw. I was prompted to take another look. When I brought the revised permutation to a pot luck New Year's Eve party my original passion instantly reignited. The changes made this unique dessert both more sophisticated and more approachable. I love being in love.
Change 1) Cornmeal, which gave the original a rustic grainy consistency has been switched to chestnut flour yielding a silken texture and a subtle earthy aroma. I have given a link for chestnut flour that you can purchase online, or you can find it at most natural food retailers. Both the cornmeal and chestnut flour recipes are gluten-free.
Change 2) The original recipe called for candied orange peel, simmered in water to soften it. I replaced this step with a slow- cooked clementine compote that I have been making for years and just posted, thus skipping a cooking step, and giving you a leftover cache of luscious clementine goo for spreading on your morning toasted muffin. If you don't want to make the compote, I advise you to reconsider, or you can substitute any good quality orange marmalade.
Change 3) Steamed puddings are traditionally made from three component parts - a fruit mixture, a sauce, and a pudding mixture. The Cooking Slow recipe employs the Old World baking technique of adding baking soda to the fruit mixture to neutralize its acid so that it does not disturb the acid-base balance that is aerating the pudding. Because baking soda is alkaline, it affects the red pigment in the kalamata olives, casting it towards green. To mitigate the color change I moved the baking soda from the fruit component to the dry ingredients in the pudding mixture so that it would be diluted before it came in contact with the kalamata olives.
It is a riff on a sweet and savory cornmeal pudding I developed for Cooking Slow (page 196). That recipe was one of my favorites in the book and the star of a dinner I did with a local restaurant (Park Plates) last month. The attending crowd loved it as much as I had when I created the recipe, and though I still agreed (it is delicious), I felt a little embarassed by its unabashed quirkiness, the very quality that had first charmed me.
Cornmeal's rustic character, simultaneously plush and gritty in the pudding, started to feel more pretentious than seductive to me, and the dark tint from the olives, which I had initially admired, changed from being a charming quirk to a minor flaw. I was prompted to take another look. When I brought the revised permutation to a pot luck New Year's Eve party my original passion instantly reignited. The changes made this unique dessert both more sophisticated and more approachable. I love being in love.
Change 1) Cornmeal, which gave the original a rustic grainy consistency has been switched to chestnut flour yielding a silken texture and a subtle earthy aroma. I have given a link for chestnut flour that you can purchase online, or you can find it at most natural food retailers. Both the cornmeal and chestnut flour recipes are gluten-free.
![]() |
Slow Cooker Candied Clementines Photograph by A. Schloss |
Change 3) Steamed puddings are traditionally made from three component parts - a fruit mixture, a sauce, and a pudding mixture. The Cooking Slow recipe employs the Old World baking technique of adding baking soda to the fruit mixture to neutralize its acid so that it does not disturb the acid-base balance that is aerating the pudding. Because baking soda is alkaline, it affects the red pigment in the kalamata olives, casting it towards green. To mitigate the color change I moved the baking soda from the fruit component to the dry ingredients in the pudding mixture so that it would be diluted before it came in contact with the kalamata olives.
Steamed Clementine Kalamata Pudding in Rosemary Caramel
Makes 8 servings
![]() |
Clementine Kalamata Pudding cloaked in Rosemary Caramel Photograph by A. Schloss |
For
the rosemary caramel:
2 cups/480 ml heavy (whipping)
cream
1/4 cup/50 g sugar
1/4 cup/60 ml honey
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh
rosemary
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
1 tbsp unsalted butter
For the pudding:
1 1/4 cups/175 g chestnut flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter, at
room temperature
3/4 cup/150 g sugar
2 large eggs
6 oz/170 g pitted Kalamata olives,
chopped in 1/4-inch pieces, about 1/2 cup chopped
3/4 cup/180 ml Clementine Compote
or orange marmalade
1/2 cup/120 ml hot water
1 tbsp
orange liqueur or brandy
![]() |
Pudding Mold with Sauce |
2) Coat a 1 1/2 qt/1.4 l soufflé dish
or pudding mold with the 1 tbsp butter. Pour two-thirds of the sauce into the
prepared mold and put in the freezer, until the sauce is solid, about 15
minutes.
3) To assemble the pudding, mix the
chestnut flour, baking powder and baking soda in a small bowl; set aside. Mix the chopped olives, clementine compote, hot water, and liqueur in a medium
bowl; set aside.
![]() |
Beating Butter, Sugar and Eggs Photograph by A. Schloss |
![]() |
Foil Topped Souffle Dish Photograph by A. Schloss |
6) Put the covered mold in a large
saucepan or soup pot large enough to hold it without the mold touching the
sides of the pot, and pour boiling water around the mold until the water comes
about half way up the side of the mold and does not touch the foil. Cover the
pot and steam the pudding over low heat for 3 hours adding more water if the
level should drop by more than half. When done the top of the pudding will be
dry and the center will feel barely soft.
7) While the pudding is steaming heat
the reserved caraemel sauce in a skillet over medium heat until it is boiling vigorously
and turns to a golden caramel color, stirring often, about 8 minutes; set aside.
8) Remove the pudding mold from the
water and cool for 5 minutes. Take off the foil. Run a knife around the edge of
the pudding and invert on to a plate. Scrape any sauce clinging to the mold
over the top of the pudding. Serve in wedges drizzled with some of the remaining
sauce. If the sauce has gotten too thick, thin with a little warm milk.
![]() |
Clementine Kalamata Steamed Pudding in Rosemary Caramel Photograph by A. Schloss |
Timing
Chilling Time: 45 minutes
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cooking Time: about 3 hours
Store: for up to 2 days, covered
in the refrigerator. Can be rewarmed briefly in a microwave.
In a Slow Cooker
Prepare the pudding as described
through step #5. Put the covered pudding mold in a 6-quart slow cooker. Add
boiling water to the cooker half way up the side of the mold. Cover the crock
and cook on high for 3 hours. Finish and serve as described in steps #7 and 8.
What beautiful photography! I'm going to make this recipe just so I can take a picture of it. Well not just for that...
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